White Wines: Chill out, but not too much.
I had always learned that white wines should be chilled. Whenever I went to a restaurant I saw people sitting around with their chardonnay, sauvignon blanc or riesling tucked into buckets of ice. Of course there is the classic picture of tuxedo-clad cool guy, Cary Grant or George Clooney depending on your generation, suavely lifting a bottle of champagne from a silver, ice-filled bucket to pour the wine into a tulip-shaped glass while being adored by a doe-eyed beauty. So, I thought all white wines should be frosty.
When my interest in wine was in its late infancy I would purchase a bottle of white wine, usually a California chardonnay, and put it into the refrigerator. When my wife and I drank it the wine always disappointed. It seemed to be harsh, flavorless, and bitter. I remember one January, when friends were coming to dinner, I decided that the problem was that the bottle was not cold enough, so I took my three bottles of Kendall Jackson Reserve chardonnay and put them into a snow bank by the front porch thinking that the extra winter kick would yield a truly awesome experience. It was terrible… harsh and flavorless. The wine was so bad I thought that we had gotten defective bottles, inhabited by some level of antifreeze and better suited for the radiator of my car than my guests’ glasses. We grimly finished only two bottles.
I put the surviving bottle in the refrigerator thinking that it would be better suited for cooking than drinking. A week or two later we took the bottle out of this cold prison and decided to give it one last redemptive chance. For some reason my wife and I did not drink it immediately but waited about half an hour, perhaps longer before eating. To my surprise the wine burst with flavor. Epiphany!!! White wines do not have to be arctic-cold. We experimented that evening and discovered that cool, not cold was the answer.
I now understand that there is a distinct difference between ‘cool’ and ‘cold’. Most white wines taste best at a temperature around 58○ F. The typical refrigerator compartment is designed to operate at about 38○. I had mistakenly confused cool with cold. I had been drinking wine about twenty degrees colder than its optimal drinking temperature, hence the harsh tasteless slush I had given myself. I have learned that it is OK to chill the typical white wine in the refrigerator (about an hour) or to keep it in the refrigerator and remove it forty-five minutes before serving. This waiting time took the bottle to about the right temperature.
Of course, this does not work of all white wines. Champagne should be served cold, not chilled, and some sweeter, wines can survive being colder than its brethren and sisteren. If you have been disappointed in your white wine, check its temperature, the problem may be in the fact that it is chilling out too much. This is especially a problem in many restaurants where the white wines are kept in walk-in refrigerators, twenty degrees too cold, and then presented and served with an ice bucket. You can tell if this is the case if the wine comes to you beaded with condensation. It will be too cold. I have learned to hold the bottle in my hand. If it feels as if it kept company with the butter and carrots I know that it is probably much too cold. I let it sit at the table for a while, and send the accompanying ice bucket back to the kitchen.
“Tomatillo (pronounced toe-mah-tee-yo), a primary ingredient in Latin American green sauce (salsa verde), means “little tomato” in Spanish — but these beauties pack a lot of flavor into their small containers. With a distinctly tart, almost lemony flavor, tomatillos enhance a broad range of dishes, from guacamole and appetizers to stews and steaks.”
As a child I had a friend E. whose father wore orthopedic shoes everyday. As kids do ,we would laugh and joke about them and fein embarrasment when he wore them. The irony of this is that these are almost the same exact shoes I have worn thoughout my career.
The Splendid Table (thesplendidtable.publicradio.org) is a radio show on National Public Radio dedicated to everything food related. The Host, Lynne Rossetto Kasper, has won numerous awards for her talk show including a 1999 James Beard award for “Best National Radio Show On Food”. She has also written many books that have also won awards. The women really knows her stuff.